How to swap out the key switches in the CORSAIR K65 PLUS WIRELESS

The CORSAIR K65 PLUS WIRELESS is our new 75% mechanical keyboard. Not only is a top tier wireless gaming keyboard, but it’s also super customizable. This customizability is what makes it the perfect starting point for getting into the custom keyboard scene, and we’ve made it really easy to disassemble too.

However, the first step towards becoming a custom keyboard type of person doesn’t require all that technical stuff. You can customize your keyboard without the removal of a single screw if that keyboard has a hotswappable PCB, like the K65 PLUS. What a coincidence.

So, today we’re going to teach you how to swap out the key switches in your CORSAIR K65 PLUS. Before we get into it, it’s important to know that the following steps are applicable for literally any hotswappable keyboard, not just our own. OK, let’s start yanking switches. Well, keycaps first, actually.

Handily, we’ve included a combination keycap/switch puller with the CORSAIR K65 PLUS. So grab that and let’s get to work.

Firstly, take a photo of the keyboard. You won’t be able to remember the specific location of each keycap unless you’d done this a bunch of times. Those who have done this enough to memorize the layout, won’t be reading this, so you need to take a photo. (Alternatively, EK Switch Hitter can be used but only if you plug the keyboard in when you’re putting the keycaps on). Here's US and UK images just in case you forgot.

Right, unless you want to make a whole lot of weird stuff happen on your PC, unplug the keyboard. Now, grab the puller out of the box and position the wire side above the target keycap.

Press the puller vertically down over the keycap and the wires will flex down around the edges of the keycap and hook underneath it. You’ll need to align the horizontal bottom sections of the wires with the corners, by the way. The horizontal sections are shorter than the edge of the keycap, so they won’t hook underneath unless you approach the keycap diagonally.

Alright, that was a lot of words, so, here’s a handy clip showing you the correction motions for removing a keycap.

It’s worth mentioning here that the two wires on this side of the puller may initially be too close together so they’ll just clumsily bump into the top of the cap instead of sliding down the edges. If this is the case feel free to pull them way from each other slightly to create enough clearance.

Now repeat that for every key cap on the K65 PLUS (or whatever keyboard you’re using). After 50+ keys, you’ll be a pro puller and therefore graduate to the next step: switch removal.

Flip the puller around so that you’re using the side that superficially resembles tweezers. Notice the two hooks. These press two little tabs in on the underside of the switch to release it from the switch plate.

These tabs are on the top and the bottom of the switch. Orient the switch puller the other way around and you’ll get absolutely nowhere. Refer to the clip below for correct switch pulling posture.

Well, don’t throw away the keycaps or the key switches. The switches you just pulled out of the K65 PLUS are our CORSAIR MLX Reds. Light, pre-lubed linear switches. They are compatible with any Hotswap PCB out there. So, keep em around for a future keyboard build.

The keycaps are a bit more bespoke in this case, with legends referring to features printed on keys that won’t perform those features on other keyboards. However, this set will more than likely work with other boards that are 75% or smaller. So, they’re worth keeping too. Keep in mind that if you put aftermarket keycaps on the K65, the new ones won’t have legends to remind you of those shortcuts.

Given that you’ve just yanked all the switches out, we’re going to assume that you’ve already got some wonderfully snappy Drop Holy Panda X switches from our friends at DROP. Or perhaps you’ve gone for another style of switch.

Similarly, now is a good time to swap in some new keycaps. Again, DROP has you covered here. However, make sure that the keycaps you’re using will work with the. Most keycap sets come with keys to allow for varying spacebar lengths and the differences between ISO and ANSI layouts. But not always, so make sure to check.

Regardless of which switches you’re swapping in or where you got them, the process for installing new switches is less fiddly than removing them. Meaning that this part is more fun. Let’s go.

Now that the keyboard is switchless and capless, take a moment to observe this newly honest circuit board. Looking at the hot swap socket on the K65 PLUS, you’ll notice 5 holes. These holes aren’t symmetrical, meaning that it’s not possible to install a switch the wrong way, which is handy.

However, you can damage the switches if you carelessly jam them in as the pins are very fragile. So, here’s how to line them up correctly every time.

Take a look at the switch you’re installing and notice how 3 of the 4 sides are sloped. The fourth side is at the top of the switch and goes down vertically. This side should always be oriented at the top. Once you’ve oriented the switch correctly. Press down vertically until you feel it clonk in. There won’t be much resistance here, so if pressing it becomes difficult, take another look at the underside of the switch and try again. Repeat for every switch in the keyboard.

This is the easiest part of the entire process as it has the lowest chance of damaging anything. Grab your new keycaps, referring to the photo we mentioned earlier, and press the keycap onto the switch stem. Most of the keycaps on a keyboard are perfectly square, so you can easily put them on in the wrong orientation, so check before each one, just in case. Repeat this step for each and every key on the board.

Just like that, you’re done. It can become a bit a tedious after a while, but the enjoyment gained from using a keyboard with different switches and a choice set of keycaps is worth it.